Bunting some thing, bunting fun thing . . . would go a long way wrapped around your tree Monday, Dec 22 2014 

A joyous thing for your backyard tree, something hand-made by K.T.

Her JEANBAG® enterprise branched out (pun intended) this year to bunting and I was a-taken-a-back by all the bunting I happened to notice since I saw her recycled denim handy work. I was so busy towards the end of the season to go get some + we don’t do a traditional tree BUT for all those fornicating trees in the backyard, I can think of nothing better!

A family affair – studio commissions rather than random finds while Christmas browsing Saturday, Dec 20 2014 

Lyn Taylor’s brief sheet starts with the date 1/10/2014 and notes delivery in time for Christmas wrapping . . . something for daughter Kate and two things for Lyn. Her large lace dish earrings with x10 of her old cut diamonds, her rubies and recycle her three family rings, white enamel fusion in 18ct yellow gold with those easy-to-wear hooks that Barbara and Juan-luis do so well.

The studio buys back the gold, unsets the stones, weighs and notes the gem details and uses refined gold for its purity. The rings were possibly from early 1900s but the diamonds were from much earlier times, being old rose cuts probably recycled when the rings were made. The diamonds were lovely and clear as were the rubies. We sourced more 2.5mm rubies to get the symmetry right. A large .pdf is here.

Lyn’s wide ‘saddle style’ ring (detail below) with her gold filigree removed from old ring and reapplied to a new © Bh ring with oxidised silver finish.

Kates new ring below using her Amethyst, (11.5mm x 7mm scissor cut 1=3.00ct) set into a tapered rectangular box setting, fitted low for protection and held with x4 claws. Setting is fitted to © Bh ‘cheapside style’ band with each shoulder junction having a cluster of beads as detail in organic style – set with yellow Sapphires and Tzavorite Garnets. 9ct palladium white gold with burnished finish.

I’m busy scanning and preparing posts while the two jewellers slog away on the final makes for the year. A few dedicated commissioners have opted to wait until the new year. More studio visitors who have returned to family here have visited and picked up gifts – most work is reconsigned to our three retailers but we keep studio favourites here for the next five days, right up to Christmas eve.

Our annual ‘Jeweller to the Lost’ commissioners + friends, two day studio sale starts tomorrow at 10:00am Friday, Dec 5 2014 

Special makes, stock returned from retailers, some vintage 80’s and 90’s Barbara items, some gem fiends only concentrate on gem stock – everything at wholesale and less until the studio closes for the summer break. This annual event helps us clear the stock trays and assists new year metal and gem purchases, it also enables collectors and fans to stock up on another signature piece while others are here for three or more well-priced gifts.

Additional pic selection: - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8

Place and Adornment – A history of contemporary jewellery in Australia and New Zealand Saturday, Nov 8 2014 

This well researched and much anticipated book is now available to everyone interested in the subject, across the divide from both directions. I’ve altered the cover of the book shot to show that the magic is out-of-the-box.

Barbara’s email to Kevin has been copied into this post, below. Published by Bateman ISBN – 978 1 869 53 820 0

Hi Kevin, Wow! really.” “I have been dipping in and out of this book – it would be curious to map a trail of my exploration…I started at the beginning of course, no that’s not quite true, of course I started by looking up my name in the index to hastily read the section on myself – an act which in itself reveals the enormity of your project from the outset – i.e. the number of artist egos you must have had to negotiate to gather all this material together. That fact alone is extraordinary and I/we all thank you for it. Anyway after finding my own story succinctly told and enjoying the subsequent wave of warm inclusion, I went to the pages on Ray Norman, my friend and mentor. I have had so many conversations with Ray and so often thought, ‘I must write this down’, so I loved reading about his early years couched within your overview of the context within which he was working. Here was both a revelation and a re-iteration of the familiar – I felt gratitude again for details recorded. Praise the archivist.” “But also I began to get a sense of this quality of dispassionate overview; the placing, recording and grouping, the timeline and the larger cultural themes. Its like having a key to unlock the story of one’s own category…the fascination of looking through the other end of the telescope.” “So then I focussed on the Australian segments and thought , mmm maybe I’ll read the NZ parts later… but quite quickly (good plan to have each section flow back and forth across the ditch seamlessly) I got hooked into the whole. So…I am hooked and enjoying the ride tremendously – and wanted to let you know sooner rather than wait until I get to the end.” “I hope you are both receiving mountains of praise for what we know to be a considerable amount of labour. More in due course,” “Cheers and love from Barbara”

Kevin adds that he has started another blog to post all the material taken from texts prepared but not included in the final published work + updates – http://placeandadornment.tumblr.com

 

“Bespoke pieces of Jewellery are part of your history and will tell that story forever. I’m not sure that an expensive handbag will do the same” – Loquet, London from The Times 5/11/2014 Thursday, Nov 6 2014 

Umm . . . that’s our little trade secret also – a one to many relationship with clients,  it separates “Jeweller to the Lost” from the masses of Fashion High Street customers.

Early November every year I sift through the commissioner’s data to create our list, to thank those who dare to be different. The list this year is so delightfully long, I have even counted another x16 job bags pending, for people who are not rushed. Client’s who trust Barbara and Juan-Luis to get around to it when their turn comes.

 

“The It bag is dead – long live diamond bracelets, gold necklaces and gem encrusted rings and bracelets.” ” What is different today is how women are increasingly turning to jewellery to transform their wardrobes.” “Of course it helps that fine jewellery is back in Vogue.” “Jewellery designers continue to push the boundaries with precious stones. Bashing them, chipping away at the edges to create a stealth-wealth badge.” – There you have it, our customers who really get it spend hours here with our wholesale gem collection planning and pushing the ideas before pulling out their card to commit to another wearable investment.

Latest commissioned dress ring collected on Thursday (with much celebration and delight) Sunday, Oct 19 2014 

Tamsin Cull and Barbara huddled together for almost three meetings to plan and execute this © Bh offset “lace dish” ring they have dubbed –  THE STORY SO FAR. Recycling her materials and gems, we worked with 5 cushion cut diamonds from her Grandmother’s ring and 2 diamonds and 1 ruby from another earlier commission + 1 new brown diamond + bead details from Grandmother’s ring + yellow gold from her Florentine ponte vecchio ring – got that? All recreated in 18ct Palladium White Gold and Yellow Gold by the studio and using all the other metals to create the shaped and elegant © tapered Bud band. I’ve asked Tamsin to periodically shoot the ring and send on her pics, my choice of her first three is below:

We head to Brunswick Heads as does retro and garage . . . + Fabulous Mrs Fox Monday, Sep 29 2014 

First thing Sunday we hit the road for two days in and around Brunswick Heads, northern NSW – freaky really.

End of school holidays, needing some massage, long walks and snooping shops . . . new restaurants and we meet an old (creative) acquaintance  of Barbara’s, Jo and her Wil of (William White Industries) and www.theclassicfamily.com.au

+ Louise at <re sould> who is a friend of Scott Redford via Bet & Janelle Watson

+ Bangalow and Milton Cater’s (carpet) boys

+ The great black West London gent at the Greek restaurant ‘fatbellyKaf’ in Brunswick Heads

+ best kept secret shop, Gabrielle’s Closet on the way home in Murwwillumbah

Exquisite pair of local boar’s tusks turned into a pair of wearable bangles Friday, Sep 26 2014 

The questions were: 1) do we make silver fitted caps for each tusk? . . . and they sell them as objects. 2) do we endeavour to make them into wearable bracelets? 3) if so how to make them both fit her slender slim wrists? 4) There will have to be lots of metal, Silver or Rose Gold? 5) how to best show off the patina and growth lines of the tusks?

Barbara, Juan-Luis, mal E, Vanessa and Michael played with the options . . . sometimes they we were all in accord, ideas were lobbed into the mix like wild-fire – two meetings then the solution was drawn up, costed a few ways and accepted in a few minutes.

I’ve posted both together (above) and the two separate (below) © Barbara Heath – Jeweller to the Lost

 

 

Feedback from Vanessa Roche, via iPhone messaging: “Nancy Cunard photographed by Man Ray, she is fun to google . . . Thanks again for the bracelets, they are just perfect! I might try to build up to this look”. The image sent was too small to post –  our Nancy Cunard image comes from the Jewellery to the Lost library ‘ Costume Jewellery in Vogue’ by Jane Mulvagh.

The before and the after shots are always telling (telling me I shouldn’t try to do the impossible) Tuesday, Sep 23 2014 

French mercury gilded bronze and brass c1790–1820 is the last period of perfection. The case work is still robustly made with their steel and brass ties and nuts still substantial. The problem being two fold – removing the dirt and chemical residue remaining after time and abuse + finding all the bad repairs made over time to keep the case together.

The dial and bezel is in bad shape while the movement is totally rusted together. Dr Sal Rahman knows he has a particular divine clock and wants to spare no expense to have it restored, its the long period waiting that is the hardest.

This is a shot showing the clock and the studio garden.

He bought her a large round brilliant cut diamond but she loved the idea of a square princess cut Tuesday, Sep 16 2014 

So Barbara designed and made her wedding ring over 20 years ago with a rather special setting, it showed the round diamond off in a square setting with Barbara’s usual abundant use of metal. A deep stone requiring a high cushioned setting – well we have been commissioned to cut away the stone, use the metal and create a new tapered offset ring and do a new gem encrusted band to accompany the new ring. Everything that went through the first ceremony stays intact for whatever the future throws up . . . we loved this sentiment and the brief from this long standing Melbourne client.

 

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