More on the cubic zirconia and black dot paste Tuesday, Jul 16 2013 

Our Sydney gem cutter – Tony Maynard has a passionate interest in the evolution of gem cutting throughout history so it was always going to be his gig – sourcing and cutting this gem for Tricia Crowley’s table cut ‘renaissance’ ring. Cubic zirconia was selected for its high refractive index over say pure quartz and also as zircon is a harder stone. The work travelled to and fro between Brisbane and Sydney – each time the back facet angles were adjusted, finally settling on this 40˚ slope. The base point called the culet, has been polished flat, this is where the black dot reflection emanates from. In Georgian paste you see those characteristic  fine black dots showing, in our stone you see this small square showing. Tony talked about early forms of gem finishing being simple “just polishing the existing facets on a naturally occurring octahedral crystal”.

Finished today – Commissioned © Bh Solitaire Dress Ring with a ‘renaissance table cut’ 12mm square cubic zirconia Friday, Jul 12 2013 

Barbara and Tricia have lusted together about this particular ring in the ‘cheapside horde’ – originally with a 16thC table cut diamond set with a foil back and enamelled in white and fine black brush work. Barbara’s ‘holbein knot’ or raised stitch work is evident in the design and the make. Our trusted gem cutter in Sydney; Tony Maynard sourced and cut the cubic zirconia after lengthy  discussions and tests and parcels to and fro to get it right. The final metal specification changed from 18ct Yellow Gold to Fine Silver which set particular enamelling issues which the studio overcame. Sans foil setting meant that the inside of the setting was eventually oxidised and then the stone was set. This time a perfect seat for the stone warped during the enamelling process.  All corrected now.  By way of lengthy disclosure, the job specification has been spelt out leaving only the weight of the stone 1=27.56ct

Juan-luis’ daughter’s one year old ring inside the silver Holbein knot ring for Tricia Saturday, Jul 6 2013 

. . . two works in progress rings, black enamel going on the larger ring and a specially cut (16th century styled) cubic zirconia  gemstone weighing 27.56ct